The Patek Philippe Calatrava 5026R

The Icons is a series of articles about history's most significant luxury products. Those pursuing a career in the luxury industry will find benefit in understanding the rich histories and curious details behind their creation.

A “Neo-Vintage” Bridge

The Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5026R captures a fascinating moment in the history of the Genevan watchmaker's most iconic line of watches. Introduced in 1997 and discontinued by 2002, this specific reference enjoyed a relatively brief production period, and serves as a “neo-vintage” bridge between the smaller vintage Calatravas that came before and today's larger modern references.

Black, Brown, Cerulean Blue

This particular 5024 is seated in a gorgeous glossy cerulean blue crocodile strap, custom made by Atelier Yang in Singapore. Singapore has a long history in the exotic reptile skin trade from its time as a British colony (and even before, as a thriving port city). Wild crocs are still found on the island, and in neighbouring Malaysia and Indonesia, from where this carefully selected hide was procured. Atelier Yang upholds Southeast Asia's reputation for exquisite craftsmanship and impeccable customer service.

With only rare exceptions on some modern references, Calatravas are normally seen only on black or brown straps.

Furthering the Legacy

The name "Calatrava" was taken from the Calatrava La Vieja castle in Castile-La Mancha, Spain. The Calatrava Cross, emblem of the religious order of knights charged with protecting the castle in the 12th century, was also adopted as Patek Philippe's logo in the 19th century.

The Ref. 5026R, like all Calatravas, is an iteration on the original Ref. 96. The hallmark round case and refined elegance directly echo that seminal timepiece.

The Ref. 96, unveiled in 1932 and regarded as the first Calatrava (even though it wasn't labelled as such at the time), was the first time the company used the concept of a model number. It was also for this specific model that the calibre 120, Patek Philippe's first in-house wristwatch movement, was made in 1934.

The designer of the Ref. 96 is lost to time; esteemed horologist John Reardon has debunked the myth that fellow watch expert David Penney illustrated the model's concept drawings. Aside from the glaringly obvious fact that Penney wasn't even born yet during the conception of the Ref. 96, Penney himself has confirmed that his illustrations were made for the Patek Philippe history and art book published by Martin Huber and Alan Banbery in 1982.

The success of the Ref. 96 in the aftermath of the Great Depression can be attributed to its conservative size and understated functionality. This design inspired a whole family of references, which brings us back to our Ref. 5026R.

Here we have a silver dial, with applied gold Breguet-style arabic numerals. Close inspection reveals applied gold minute markers as well, which is a subtle and uncommon dial feature. There are matching gold Breguet-style hour- and minute-hands. The most notable piece of dial furniture is the sub-second dial in a peculiar position at 4 o'clock, with its sporty railroad track border, upon which an unadorned gold hand counts seconds. Overall, the dial is somehow simultaneously pleasingly simple but fascinatingly detailed. And extremely tasteful.

The "R" in the reference number is for the Rose gold of the case.

Most 5026Rs were completed with black dials; as you would find if you searched for this reference on Chrono24 or elsewhere. All 5026Rs are rare; the silver-dialled variant that shares the same reference number is even moreso.

The 240PS, A Foundational Movement

The 5026 is built around Patek's 240 PS calibre, a self-winding movement first introduced in 1977. Watch enthusiasts will list it as one of the all-time best & most beautiful watch movements. The main feature is the solid gold micro-rotor, allowing for a very thin profile for an automatic movement.

To this day, the design of the 240PS is used as the basis for most of Patek's complicated movements, including its perpetual calendars and grand complications.

Innovation within a Classic Form

Unlike the first few decades of timepieces to use this movement, watches of this neo-vintage era sometimes have exhibition casebacks. Finally we could appreciate the movement without opening the case!

Compared to nearly all modern Calatravas (and all watches today in general) this reference retains a vintage-sized diameter of 33.5mm. So with the 5026 you get modern features like the exhibition caseback but with timeless classical proportions. Today, the watch is worn equally well by men and women.

Working at Patek Philippe

Patek is famously based Geneva, and is a cornerstone of Swiss watchmaking. It employs 1,600 artisans and other staff at the Manufacture in Plan-les-Ouates and at its boutiques around the world.

Founded in 1839 by Antoine Norbert de Patek and Adrien Philippe, the company was acquired in 1932 by the Stern family, its supplier of watch dials. At the helm today are Thierry Stern (President), Philippe Stern (Honorary President), and Laurent Bernasconi (CEO).

Similar to Hermès' family tradition, Patek Philippe fosters watchmaking talents with rigorous, intensive, continual training. A peek inside the watchmaking programme at the company's New York workshop shows future craftsmen dedicating months to creating the perfectly minute tools. This is in line with Thierry Stern's commitment to quality over quantity.

"You have to transmit this type of vision to your own people," Stern says in an interview with Jack Forster for Hodinkee. "To say, "Forget about selling, we're going to have to manage maybe the opposite. The anger of people who are not able to buy it because we don't have enough. But on the other hand, look how happy and proud we can be because we have the finest product." This is the key. So, even if people hate me because I do not make enough, on the other hand, they say, "But, you have the finest watches in the world," and this is much more important for me."

Patek Philippe Jobs

Patek Philippe has currently has 14 open positions which are discreetly circulated to watchmaking & luxury professionals.