The Patek Philippe Calatrava 5026R

Patek Philippe × Cerulean

The Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5026R captures a fascinating moment in the history of the Genevan watchmaker's most iconic line of watches. Introduced in 1997 and discontinued by 2002, this specific reference enjoyed a relatively brief production period, and serves as a “neo-vintage” bridge between the vintage Calatravas that came before and today's larger modern references.

This particular 5024 is seated in a gorgeous glossy cerulean blue crocodile strap, custom made by Yang Atelier in Singapore. Singapore has a long history in the exotic reptile skin trade from its time as a British colony (and even before, as a thriving port city). Wild crocs are still found on the island, and in neighbouring Malaysia and Indonesia, from where this carefully selected hide was procured. Yang Atelier upholds Southeast Asia's reputation for exquisite craftsmanship and impeccable customer service.

A Legacy Rekindled

The Ref. 5026R stands as a clear homage to the Ref. 96, unveiled in 1932 and regarded as the first Calatrava (even though it wasn't labelled such at the time). The hallmark round case and refined elegance directly echo this seminal timepiece.

Here we have a silver dial, with applied gold Breguet arabic numerals. Close inspection reveals applied gold minute markers, which is a subtle and uncommon dial feature. There are matching gold Breguet hour- and minute-hands. The most notable piece of dial furniture is the sub-second dial at 4 o'clock, with its sporty railroad track border, upon which an unadorned gold hand counts seconds. Overall, the dial is somehow simultaneously pleasingly simple but fascinatingly detailed. Tasteful.

The R in the reference number is for Rose gold. Most 5026Rs were completed with a black dial; this is a rare silver-dialled variant that shares the same reference number.

The 240PS, A Foundational Movement

The 5026 is built around Patek's 240 PS calibre, a self-winding movement first introduced in 1977. Watch enthusiasts will list it as one of the best and most beautiful watch movements ever. The main feature is the solid gold micro-rotor, affording a very thin profile for an automatic movement.

To this day, the design of the 240PS is used as the basis for most of Patek's complicated movements, including its perpetual calendars and grand complications.

Innovation within a Classic Form

Unlike the first few decades of timepieces to use this movement, watches of this era were the first to have exhibition casebacks. Finally we could appreciate the movement without opening the case!

Compared to nearly all modern Calatravas (and all watches today in general) this reference retains a vintage-sized diameter of 33.5mm. So with the 5026 you get modern features like the exhibition caseback but with timeless classical proportions. Today, the watch is worn equally well by men and women.

Working at Patek Philippe

Patek is famously based Geneva, and is a cornerstone of Swiss watchmaking. It employs 1,600 artisans and other staff at the Manufacture and at its boutiques around the world.

The company has a number of discreetly circulated job openings.