Luxury Lexicon A definition

Watchmaker

A specialist who assembles, adjusts, services or repairs watches and their movements.

Watchmaker covers several distinct jobs. A production watchmaker assembles new movements, mechanical or electronic; fits the balance wheel and balance spring and adjusts them with a timing machine; then fits the dial, hands, crystal, gaskets and strap, and checks water resistance and functions before final quality control. A service watchmaker, or rhabilleur, diagnoses, overhauls and repairs watches already sold. Work on complications can be a further specialization: at Patek Philippe, a full overhaul of a complication requires at least seven years of specific training.

In Switzerland, the three-year production watchmaker CFC (horloger de production) covers movement assembly, casing, dial and hands, and water-resistance checks. The four-year watchmaker CFC has a specialization in rhabillage (repair) or industrial methods. Training is full time at a watchmaking school or an apprenticeship, with three or four days a week at the employer and one or two at school.

In job listings

Watchmaker heads production, service and retail workshop listings alike, so the rest of the title and the duties decide the role: assembly and regulation at a manufacture, overhauls in a service center or a retailer’s workshop, or work on complications. Swiss listings may ask for a CFC or an equivalent qualification. See current watchmaker roles.

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