A shaped form used to build a shoe and establish its shape and fit.
A last is a form shaped like a foot, over which the upper is pulled to give the shoe its shape. Lasts are made of wood, plastic or metal, and a maker needs one for each model and each size. At Crockett & Jones the upper is tacked to the back of the last to set the back height, pulled over the toe by machine and lasted at the sides by hand.
The last sets both look and fit. It defines the toe, whether square, round or pointed, as well as the width fitting and instep, and it must respect the foot’s width, thickness and arch. Because lasts vary in width, length and general shape, Grenson notes, some will suit a given foot and others will not. Crockett & Jones offers some lasts in E and G width fittings, and repairs its Goodyear-welted shoes on the last they were made on.
In job listings
Pattern makers draw style lines and patterns on lasts, development technicians work with last makers, and fit roles assess and correct new lasts on samples. Made-to-order bootmakers create a client’s lasts from measurements and refine them after fittings. See current footwear development roles.
