A woven fabric whose pattern is formed by contrasting weave structures, often creating a reversible design.
A damask is woven from one warp and one weft, and its pattern comes from a contrast of weave structures, not of colors; the Getty Art & Architecture Thesaurus adds that the pattern appears in reverse on the back. The V&A explains that the effect depends on light falling on surfaces that alternate between the smooth face of satin weave and its contrasting reverse, which suits silk especially.
Newcomers often treat damask, jacquard and brocade as one thing. Jacquard names the loom, which controls each warp end individually, and any figured cloth woven on it; damask and brocade can both be woven on it. Brocade is made by brocading, a weft-patterning technique for raised patterns, often with metal thread, while a damask’s pattern lies in its weave structure alone. The V&A holds damask as dress and furnishing silk, as a linen tablecloth, and in a 1994 John Galliano slip dress.
In job listings
Damask is rarely a job title. It sits with textile design, where designers draw motifs and repeats for woven cloth and prepare files for suppliers; one Paris textile design listing asks for knowledge of woven fabrics and jacquard. See current textile design roles.
