Luxury Lexicon 29 terms

Watchmaking terms

Terms used to make, finish and service watches.

All groups

A

Anglage
Beveling and polishing the edges of watch movement components to create smooth, reflective borders.
Angleur
A specialist who bevels and polishes the edges of watch movement components.
Automatic watch
A mechanical watch, with no battery, whose mainspring is wound by a weighted rotor that turns as the wearer moves.

B

Balance spring
The fine spring that returns a mechanical watch's balance wheel toward its resting position and helps determine its oscillation rate.
Black polishing
Polishing a metal surface so flat and smooth that it appears mirror-bright or black depending on the viewing angle.

C

Caliber
A watch's internal movement, or the designation identifying a particular movement design.
Casing-up
Installing and securing the assembled watch movement, dial and hands inside the case.
Chronograph
A watch with a stopwatch function that can start, stop and reset elapsed-time measurement while continuing to tell the time.
Complication
A watch function beyond displaying hours, minutes and seconds, such as a calendar, chronograph or second time zone.
COSC
The Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres, the Swiss body that tests watch movements and certifies those that pass as chronometers.
Côtes de Genève
A decorative finish of regular bands applied with an abrasive tool to watch movement surfaces, often plates and bridges.

D

Décolletage
Producing small precision components from metal bar stock on an automatic lathe, using turning and related machining operations.

E

Engraving
Cutting a design or lettering into metal or another hard material, by hand with a graver or by machine or laser.
Escapement
The mechanism that releases a mechanical watch's gear train in controlled steps and delivers energy to the balance.

G

GMT watch
A watch that shows a second time zone, usually with an extra hour hand that turns once in 24 hours against a 24-hour scale.
Guilloché
A decorative pattern of repeated engraved lines, traditionally cut into metal with a hand-operated engine-turning machine.
Guillocheur
A craftsperson who engraves repeating decorative patterns on watch dials or other metal surfaces using a hand-operated engine-turning machine.

H

Haute horlogerie
French for fine watchmaking: the upper end of the trade, judged by how movements are made and finished, by design and by service.
Horology
The study and practice of measuring time and making timepieces.

M

Mechanical watch
A watch powered by a wound spring rather than a battery, its rate set by an oscillating balance wheel and balance spring.
Métiers d’art
French for skilled artistic crafts, including disciplines such as embroidery, engraving and decorative metalwork.
Movement assembly
Fitting together and lubricating a watch's internal components so its mechanism can run and be tested.

P

Perlage
A decorative finish of small, overlapping circular marks applied to watch movement plates and bridges with a rotating abrasive tool.

Q

Quartz watch
A battery-powered watch whose rate is set by a quartz crystal vibrating 32,768 times a second, counted down electronically to drive the hands.

R

Regulation
Adjusting a mechanical watch's running rate to reduce how much time it gains or loses.
Rhabilleur
French for a watch repairer who diagnoses faults and restores watches to working order.

T

Tourbillon
A mechanism that rotates the balance and escapement in a cage to average out gravity-related timing errors in vertical positions.

W

Watch finisher
A specialist who prepares and finishes watch components by removing surface defects, polishing or applying decorative textures.
Watchmaker
A specialist who assembles, adjusts, services or repairs watches and their movements.

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