Luxury Lexicon 21 terms

Jewelry terms

Terms used in gemstones, precious metals and jewelry making.

All groups

B

Bench jeweler
A jeweler who makes, repairs and alters pieces by hand at a workbench.

C

Cabochon
A gemstone shaped and polished to a smooth, rounded surface rather than cut with flat facets.
Carat
The unit of mass for gemstones, equal to 200 milligrams and divided into 100 points.

E

Engraving
Cutting a design or lettering into metal or another hard material, by hand with a graver or by machine or laser.

F

Filigree
Metalwork made of fine gold or silver wire, twisted or coiled into patterns and soldered, usually as openwork.
Fine jewelry
Jewelry made in gold, platinum, silver or palladium, often set with gemstones, as distinct from costume jewelry.

G

Gemology
The study and identification of gemstones and their properties.
GIA
The Gemological Institute of America, an organization providing gem research, education and laboratory services.
Goldsmith
A maker who forms, solders, assembles and repairs jewelry in gold and other precious metals at the bench.
Guilloché
A decorative pattern of repeated engraved lines, traditionally cut into metal with a hand-operated engine-turning machine.
Guillocheur
A craftsperson who engraves repeating decorative patterns on watch dials or other metal surfaces using a hand-operated engine-turning machine.

H

High jewelry
A jeweler's top tier of work: unique or very limited pieces built around exceptional stones.

K

Karat
A measure of gold purity in 24ths by weight, so that 18 parts gold in 24 makes an alloy 75% gold.

L

Lost-wax casting
Casting metal in a mold formed around a wax model, which is burned out to leave a cavity for the metal.

M

Métiers d’art
French for skilled artistic crafts, including disciplines such as embroidery, engraving and decorative metalwork.

P

Patina
A surface appearance that develops through use, aging or deliberate treatment, particularly on leather or metal.
Platinum
A dense, white precious metal, usually about 95% pure in jewelry and used to hold stones securely.
Precious metals
Gold, platinum, silver and palladium, worked in jewelry as alloys whose metal content is stated as fineness.

S

Silversmith
A maker of vessels, tableware, objects and jewelry in silver, shaped from sheet or cast, then soldered and finished.
Stone setting
Securing gemstones in a metal mount so that each is held firmly and shows to best effect.

V

Vermeil
Sterling silver covered with gold of at least 10 karat, equal to at least 2.5 microns of fine gold under US FTC guides.

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