Elsa Peretti’s Bone cuff

Metal follows the wrist. A cuff can feel architectural without asking the body to become a column.

Elsa Peretti Bone cuffs in gold, worn against a pale blue background
Elsa Peretti Bone cuffs in gold, worn against a pale blue background. Tiffany & Co..

The Bone cuff seems to have paid attention to the wrist before deciding what shape to take. Its surface rises and dips, catching light without requiring a row of stones to do the work. I like that confidence in the metal itself. The object has plenty to say before anything is added to it.

Tiffany & Co. records Elsa Peretti’s design in 1970. The various sizes and materials change its presence, but the relationship to the body remains the starting point. Its flowing surface is an interesting companion to the more geometric Bvlgari B.zero1. Both make the structure of a piece of jewelry part of its pleasure.

Peretti’s work belongs in a wider New York design conversation, and at the counter it invites a very particular fitting. A jewelry specialist can help someone understand orientation, scale and how the cuff meets their wrist. The Tiffany Setting lifts its subject into the light; this piece makes the metal itself the subject.

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